PUPPY HANDBOOK

Here you will find a general guide with information on feeding, and caring for your puppy.

Potty Train Your Puppy

Potty training a puppy takes effort and consistency, but it is generally a fairly straightforward process if you follow some simple rules and guidelines.

KEY #1: MAINTAIN A PREDICTABLE SCHEDULE

Maintaining a consistent, predictable schedule helps your puppy get into the routine of potty training and makes it easier for them to build good habits. In this section, we’ll review how to:

1.a) Follow the Potty Training Flow Chart

1.b) Set up a schedule that works for your pup’s age

1.c) Keep a potty training log that ensures your whole family is keeping your pup on a consistent schedule

1.d) Conduct potty breaks in a way that ensures your pup learns to ‘go’ quickly when you take them outside

1.a) POTTY TRAINING FLOW CHART:

Your pup’s potty training schedule should repeat this cycle of events throughout the day:

Note that during potty training, your puppy should only ever be in one of three situations:

• in their crate or pen resting

• on a supervised potty break

• enjoying some supervised free time, which can include any combo of a walk, yard time, indoor play time, and indoor tether/settle time.

1.b) FREQUENCY OF POTTY BREAKS BY AGE

*Meals can be fed at the end of a free time period, just before a crate time period.

**In addition to their regularly scheduled potty breaks, remember that puppies often need to pee or poop:

• Immediately after running around and playing

• Soon after taking a drink or eating a meal

• Immediately after waking up from a nap

1.c) DAILY PUPPY SCHEDULE LOG

Use the two charts above (Potty-Training Flow Chart & Frequency of Potty Breaks by Age chart) to create potty training schedule for your puppy. Then, use the daily puppy schedule log below to track your pup’s progress!

1.d) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL POTTY BREAKS

There are a few simple tricks you can use to avoid accidents and get your puppy to go quickly and consistently each time you take them out for a potty break:

•Don’t Dilly Dally. Take your puppy outside immediately after they come out of their crate or confinement area.

Keep your puppy on a leash, even if you’re just going out in your backyard. This ensures you can keep a close eye on your puppy, AND it makes it easier for you to praise & reward them promptly when they do pee or poop.

•Stick to a small area. If you walk from place to place, your pup will constantly be distracted by new sights & smells, and it will take them longer to go potty. Wait until after they pee and poop, then praise and reward them with the chance to explore.

•Get ‘em moving. If your pup is on “poop strike”, try doing a quick little run-around with them in a small area; the activity can stimulate them to go.

KEY #2: PROVIDE PROPER SUPERVISION & CONFINEMENT AREAS

Providing proper supervision during free time AND setting up a designated confinement/rest area can mean the difference between a successful potty training program and an unsuccessful one. This section will provide you with simple guidelines to:

2.a) Structure free time in a way reduces the likelihood of accidents

2.b) Set up both short-term & medium-term confinement areas to reduce accidents, build bladder control, AND ensure your pup is getting the rest they need

2.a) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FREE TIME

Remember: based on the Potty Training Flow Chart, your pup is ALWAYS in one of three situations during potty training: in their crate/confinement area, on a potty break, or enjoying some free time. We have TWO simple rules to follow to ensure free time doesn’t become ‘free-for-all’ time:

Free time = supervised time; this means:

Your pup needs to be in the same room as you

You need to have two eyes on your puppy at all times when they are out for free time

Your pup should go in their crate or pen if you need to step outside even for just a minute

Free time = active play + tether time/settle time;

For many puppies, the ideal ratio of active play to settle time during free time is about 1:1

For example, if your 3-month-old puppy currently does about 45 minutes of free time before going into her crate for a nap, that free time might be split into 20 minutes of active play & training, then 20 minutes of quietly chewing on a bone next to you while on a tether

Providing a mix of both active play AND settle time ensures that:

• your pup can actually hold it until the next potty break (remember, physical activity can stimulate them to need to go pee or poop)

• your pup doesn’t inadvertently learn that free time = non-stop party time

• your pup doesn’t become overstimulated, leading to increased mouthiness/nipping (if you are struggling with puppy nipping & biting, check out our guide to reducing puppy biting).

2.b) HOW-TO: TIPS FOR SETTING UP CONFINEMENT AREAS

There are two types of confinement areas we use during potty training: a) a crate, and b) a pen or gated, puppy-proofed area. The crate and the pen serve different purposes. Most puppy owners find it easiest to have both options available, while other owners find they need only one or the other, based on their schedule and their individual puppy. Below are guidelines for when & how to use a crate vs. a pen during potty training:

The Crate.

What: a plastic or wire kennel designed to keep a dog or puppy safely & securely confined and out of trouble when an owner is not present.

Why: a crate can be helpful during potty training because, if sized correctly, it can encourage a pup to learn to hold their bladder at times when an owner may not be able to directly supervise the pup. This cuts down on potty accidents, thus speeding up potty training. As an added benefit, getting your pup comfortable in a crate means they won’t be stressed if they ever go to board at a vet’s office or kennel.

How: a crate should be large enough for a puppy to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably, but not so large that the pup can comfortably create both a “potty area” and a “sleeping area” inside the crate. The crate can be made comfy by putting a fleece blanket or crate pad inside, along with a couple of toys and bones that are safe for the pup to have without direct supervision. Some pups find it easier to settle if a lightweight sheet is draped over the front of the crate. Just be sure to leave the backside uncovered to allow plenty of airflow.

When: a crate should be used for short term confinement only, never for longer than your pup is able to hold their bladder, and ideally, never more than 3-4 hours at a time (even if they can hold it longer than that).

When it Comes to the Crate, Don’t Overdo It. A crate is a really helpful training tool but be careful not to overuse it. Crates are small, confined spaces, and while they are perfectly okay to use for short periods of time throughout the day, we don’t want our pups to have to spend too much time in them.

2. The Pen or Gated Area

What: think of this as similar to a play pen for (human) babies. It is a safe, secure area where the pup can move around and play with toys when an owner is unable to directly supervise or is not present. But this pen has an indoor potty area in the form of a wee wee pad or litter box.

Why: a pen keeps your puppy safe & secure, just like a crate, when you are unable to supervise them. But, unlike a crate, a pen also provides your pup with access to a designated indoor spot to go potty

How: a pen or gated area should include a few things: the dog’s (open) crate with a comfy bed or blanket inside; a wee wee pad in a tray (to discourage chewing/tearing) or litter box; a bowl of fresh water, and several safe toys and bones. The pen/gate should be securely fixed in place and high enough that your pup can’t scale over it.

When: a pen can be used for medium-term confinement, when your puppy will need to wait longer than they are currently able to hold it, to receive a potty break. This ensures they are not soiling their crate/themselves, and they are still practicing going in an “approved” potty spot.

Examples: if your 2-month-old pup needs to go out for a potty break every 90 minutes, but you need to be out of the house for 2.5 hours, you can leave your puppy in their pen with access to a wee wee pad, instead of in their crate. Same goes for overnight: if your pup can only last about 6 hours overnight, but you need a solid 8 hrs to feel functional, have your pup sleep in a pen with a wee wee pad overnight until they get a little older.

Your Pen or Gated Area Can Replace Your Crate. As your pup ages, you can often ditch the crate entirely, and use the pen/gated area as your pup’s primary confinement area when they are left alone (until they are old enough to be trusted not to chew up your pillows and get into things that might harm them!). When you notice that your puppy is no longer making use of the wee wee pads during pen time, that’s a good cue that you can remove the pads altogether and swap out closed crate time for pen time.

KEY #3: USE A PATIENT, POSITIVE APPROACH

This is the shortest section in our potty training basics guide, but it is one of the most important! Why? Because it is a reminder that:

3.a) Your puppy is still a baby

3.b) Potty training is a process

3.a) Your Puppy is Still a Baby.

It is sometimes easy to forget just how young our pups are when we bring them home. But they really are just babies, still developing control over their bodily functions while they also attempt to learn how to navigate a new environment, new people, and whole new set of silly human rules. Stay positive. Reward and celebrate with your pup when they do the right thing. Stay calm and avoid scolding if they have an accident in the house – you want to remain a safe, trusted place for your pup to turn as they grow up.

3.b) Potty Training is a Process.

It takes time, and your progress will not be a straight line. Your puppy WILL have accidents in the house. Sometimes, it will be 100% your fault because you waited too long to take them out, you missed a clear signal that they were about to go, or your attention got diverted by life and your pup went without you noticing. Other times, you won’t know exactly why. Maybe your pup had a bigger drink than normal. Maybe they were just feeling a little bit yucky or extra sleepy, and they forgot themselves for a moment.

No matter the reason, just remember, this is normal! So long as you are doing your best to stick to the schedule, and so long as you are seeing a positive trend, you and your pull WILL be okay! Have patience, and look for progress, not perfection :).

FEEDING

How Much Should I Feed My Puppy? A Complete Puppy Feeding Guide with Chart

***RIGHT NOW YOUR PUPPY IS USED TO EATING ABOUT 1/2cup of PURINA PUPPY CHOW DRY DOG FOOD 4 TIMES PER DAY.

When to Feed a Puppy

Once you know the daily feeding amount, you need to create a puppy feeding schedule. Take the total amount of food your puppy needs each day and divide that into a series of smaller feedings. Give those smaller amounts to him at regular intervals each day.

An easy puppy feeding schedule to follow is to feed him when you eat—at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Remember to feed him early in the evenings so he has time to digest his food before bedtime. This can help prevent accidents inside. Consistency is key. Feeding puppies at consistent times each day helps them get used to the routine.

How Much to Feed a Puppy

Now you know what to feed your puppy, but just how much food does he need each day? Because puppies grow at such fast rates, they need to start eating a complete and balanced puppy food as soon as they’re weaned, usually between six and eight weeks.

The amount of food your puppy needs depends on how much he’ll weigh at maturity. A Labrador Retriever will weigh more at maturity than a Russell Terrier, for example. So the larger dog requires more food as a puppy.

The chart below can help you determine how much dry food to feed your puppy. You should also review the specific feeding instructions on the back of his puppy food and consult with your veterinarian.

Puppy Feeding Chart

Weight 1-1/2 - 3 Months 4 - 5 Months 6 - 8 Months

(lbs) (cups) (cups) (cups)

21 - 50 1/2 - 1-1/2 1-1/2 - 2-3/4 1-1/8 - 2-1/3

51 - 75 5/8 - 2-1/3 1-1/2 - 4 1-1/2 - 3-3/4

76 - 100 1 - 2-2/3 2-7/8 - 3-3/4 2-7/8 - 6-1/3

*These are generic recommendations only. Please check the package for product specific feeding recommendations.

**Nestlé Purina Research indicates that avoiding overfeeding of puppies may help their development. Maintaining ideal body condition is key to encouraging proper growth in all puppies, especially large breeds. The indicated amounts are only a guideline. If your puppy becomes overweight, a reduction of your puppy’s daily food intake may be appropriate. As puppies near adulthood, their calorie needs may drop, and your puppy may begin leaving some food in the bowl. Don't misinterpret this as an indication of dislike for the food. Instead, begin offering less so your puppy doesn't overeat and stays in ideal body condition. You may wish to consult your veterinarian about a weight control program.

Our puppy feeding chart is a starting point to help you determine how much dry kibble to feed your puppy. Consult the puppy food package for more specific feeding instructions or talk with your veterinarian.

Puppy Worms, Worming Tablets and Puppy Worm Treatment

****YOUR PUPPY HAS BEEN DEWORMED BUT WILL NEED TO BE DEWORMED AGAIN AT 8 & 12 WEEKS OF AGE.

Worms are an inevitable part of a puppy’s life, so knowing the symptoms to look out for and establishing a puppy worming schedule is important.

How often do you worm a puppy?

Young puppies may be born with worms, and are still developing their immune system. For this reason, puppies should be dewormed early in their life, most often at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 12 weeks of age. Once your puppy reaches 12 weeks, you can continue to treat your puppy every three months for life with an effective all wormer.

Mothers may also pass worms on to their puppies, so it is important they are treated during mating, and before the birth of their puppies.

Symptoms of Intestinal Worms

Watch out for the following warning signs that your new family member may have a case of the puppy worms:

Weakness and listlessness

Diarrhoea or vomiting

Weight loss despite a good appetite

Abnormally swollen stomach

If you spot any of these symptoms, collect recent stool samples and arrange a meeting with your vet to help diagnose the problem. If your puppy has worms, your vet will discuss treatment options with you.

Types of Worms

Roundworm can be contracted through infected poo or dirt. This thin, spaghetti-like parasite is around 12cm long and can cause a pot-bellied appearance. Symptoms may include weight loss, weakness, vomiting, diarrhoea or mucus in the stool, and stunted growth.

Hookworm is one of the most dangerous of all intestinal parasites. It can be transmitted from mothers to puppies before birth or through suckling. You may be able to spot it by observing the level of your puppy’s lethargy, and looking out for symptoms that include anaemia, poor appetite and black tar-like stools that contain blood.

Tapeworm can infect a puppy when it eats its larvae from a animal, such as a flea or a mouse. There are no obvious symptoms, but small, rice-like segments can be found around their anus or in their stool. Mature tapeworms will cause your puppy to eat more than normal, but with no weight gain.

Whipworm will find its way to your puppy’s digestive tract, causing chronic bowel inflammation. You may notice mucus in the stools and weight loss or diarrhoea.

Coccidia is an organism that can live in your puppy’s intestines. It is sometimes ingested through raw or undercooked meat, including rodents. Symptoms can include diarrhoea, fever, weight loss and loss of appetite.

Heartworm can enter a puppy through the bite of a mosquito. It causes heart or lung damage, coughing, lethargy and fatigue, and can be fatal. Heartworms can be detected through a blood test, and while they are difficult to cure, they are simple to prevent. Ask your vet about treatment.

Ringworm is caused by a fungus that lives on the skin and is extremely contagious - it can even be transmitted to humans. Ringworm appears as oval bare patches on your puppy’s skin. To minimise the risk, avoid unnecessary contact with other dogs. If you suspect your puppy has ringworm, take them to the vet to get checked as ringworm can only be detected under an ultraviolet light. Once detected, your veterinarian will be able to administer the correct treatment.

Worming Treatments for your Puppy

Worming treatments are easy and effective to use. It is important to understand that these treatments do not prevent your pet from contracting worms, but work by killing any worms that are present when administered. To effectively maintain your puppy’s health, you should deworm them regularly.

There are many different ways to give your puppy a worming treatment, from easily dosed and administered puppy worming tablets to deliciously flavoured chews. These different formulations make it easy to give your puppy the dewormer they need. It is important to read the label of any puppy wormers, as you may need to use multiple products to protect your puppy against different types of worms. PURINA TOTAL CARE Chocolate Worming Treatment is an easy to administer chew that is delicious for dogs and provides effective treatment for the common roundworm and hookworm. If your puppy requires a more comprehensive treatment then an all wormer such as PURINA TOTAL CARE will treat infections of roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworms (including hydatids). These puppy wormers often come as tablets, if you’re unsure of how to administer tablets to your puppy, ask your veterinarian for a demonstration during your next vet consult.

For an effective broad spectrum treatment, consider an ‘all-in-one’ monthly treatment such as PURINA TOTAL CARE Heartwormer, Allwormer & Flea Control for Small Dogs, which are suitable for puppies from 2 weeks of age and over 4kg in body weight. This kind of treatment prevents heartworm and flea infections and controls roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworm, as well as fleas and the development of flea allergy dermatitis.

Preventing Re-infection

What many puppy owners don’t realise is that whilst deworming is vital, it is only part of the solution. As mentioned, dewormers kill parasites in your pet, but don’t always work to prevent infection in the first place, especially when it comes to intestinal worms. Therefore, preventing reinfection is the key to a happy, healthy puppy.

In addition to maintaining your regular puppy deworming schedule, to keep your pet from being reinfected from their environment: promptly pick up their poop wash your hands thoroughly after handling them, especially if you’ve handled their waste keep your puppy flea-free, as fleas may pass on tapeworms to your dog

It is important to treat your puppy during the early stages of their life and maintain this treatment into their adult years. If you have any concerns about treating your puppy for parasites, contact your vet.